Building A Dock

Below are the Steps Required when Building a Dock using our Pontoon Floats

Time needed: 6 hours

Building a Dock 6ft. x 16ft. Using Our Pontoon Floats

  1. Assembling the First Pontoon Float Frame

    With the two 16ft boards sitting parallel imagine you are assembling a regular building ladder. Securely screw four (ladder rungs) 2″x6″x 20 3/4″ PT boards at the previously marked locations. Before you put in all the screws or nails check to ensure your frame is perfectly square by measuring the diagonal distances.

    Step 1

  2. Laying Out the First Pontoon Float Frame (Ladder)

    The first step in in building a dock is to layout two 16ft 2″x6″ PT Boards on edge on a flat surface. Mark a line at the 2ft, 6ft, 10ft and 14ft mark on each board.

  3. Assembling the Second Pontoon Float Frame

    Build the second Pontoon Float Frame the same way only on top of the first one. This way no measuring is required. Leave one on top of the other for the next step in building a dock !

  4. Attaching the Pontoon Float to the Frames

    Place the Pontoon float upside down onto the upper frame. Space it lengthwise evenly. Drill a 1/4″ pilot hole through the flange of the float into the frame approximately every two feet. Drill an additional hole on each side of the nose joint.
    Bore out each hole in the float only with a 3/8″ drill bit.
    Screw a 3/8″ x 3″ galvanized lag bolt with a 3/8 washer into each predrilled hole. Just snug the lag bolt don’t squeeze the pontoon float flange.
    Flip the the attached float and frame off the bottom frame and attach the second float in the same way.
    Note the 1/2″ attachment holes in the nose of each float can be used to pull the weight of the dock.

  5. Attaching the Face Boards

    Lay the two floats out parallel to each other and six feet apart outside to outside. Take a 2″x 6″x 6′ PT board and screw it to the face of the pontoon frames on each end with a single screw. Measure the diagonals from corner to corner and adjust the frames until the diagonal measurements are the same. Finish nailing or screwing down the two Face Plates.

  6. Square the Deck

    With a measuring tape, measure diagonally corner to corner and adjust the floats to ensue the deck is square. Finish attaching the two face boards and recheck your diagonal. Temporally screw one of the deck boards across the centre and two feet in from each end. Make sure the ends are flush to the outside of the frame. Start with the centre board and use a long clamp or ratchet strap to pull them flush if necessary.

  7. Installing The Corner Brackets

    Place the corner brackets on the inside corners and and mark out the eight holes for drilling. Drill each hole with a 5/8″ drill bit. Take your time and drill each hole as true as possible. Use 3″ x 1/2″ galvanized carriage bolts and lock washers. Put a backing plate on the opposite side of the bracket unless you are installing a hinge plate. You can also install the Anchor Chain plates normally on the front end on the inside of the bracket.

  8. Building a Dock and Putting on the Deck Boards

    Start laying the deck boards from the back end. You will need to leave an over hang to compensate for the 3″ gap created by your hinges (assuming it is attached to a ramp or another dock section). If you are using our Hitch Hinge product you should leave an overhang of 1 3/4″ so you can drill a 1 1/8″ hole over the hinge locking bolt. If the front of the dock does not attach to anything you should put a deck board on flush to the faceplate. If you are using pressure treated lumber your deck boards can be laid tight to each other. If you are using kiln dried cedar you should leave a space to allow for moisture expansion. Ensure your boards are going in straight by periodically taking a measurement from the face plate to each side of the deck boards. Make slight adjustments if necessary. Remove the three cross boards in step 6 as you get them. You may have to rip a board to complete the deck however it is possible to come out perfectly if you lay your boards out and adjust them to fit. You can also take a measurement of the remaining opening and divide that by 5.5 inches as you go. By leaving a slight crack it doesn’t take long to come out just right.

    Putting on Dock Deck Boards

  9. Adding Peripherals

    Now that your basic 6 x16 foot dock is complete, it is time to make it functional.
    If you are putting on a swim ladder install it as per the instructions.
    Next install the two corner bumpers on the anchor end of the dock using 1” stainless steel self-tapping screws. We normally use 6 or 8 screws for this.
    Next, starting from the corner bumper, put the side bumper lengths on. Secure the bumpers on top and along the bottom using Truss head ¾” SS screws. Place them every second board. Put the next length on cutting off any excess using a sharp wet utility knife. You can also mark it and cut it with your chop or sliding saw if you have one. Cut and install the last bumper section across the end between the corner bumpers. Do not install bumpers on the shore end or between dock sections.
    RD Dock Tip: If you are putting on solar lights consider putting them between the corner bumpers on the end piece. The light can be hard to see if it is hidden behind the corner bumper.
    Dock Cleats. Screw down your dock cleats as per the instructions. We now normally use good quality structual screws or actually bolt them through the deck board before we install the board.

    Adding Bumpers

Building a Dock Video

Designing and Building a Dock | Do it Yourself Dock Kit

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Winterizing Docks Ice Resistant Pontoon Floats

Winterizing Docks

Winterizing docks can be a very difficult task if you have to remove them for the winter. Our ice resistant pontoon floats are designed to be left in the water all year including winter. When winterizing docks you must disconnect them especially if the shore connection is a deck or other solid structure. Generally we simply “beach” them and tie them off however in conditions where that isn’t possible you have to develop a different strategy. While the obvious concern is the ice, you must keep in mind the potential for a bad fall storm. Generally we recommend leaving the docks installed as long as possible since that could be the safest place for them.

  • Ice resistant pontoon floats Richardson Docks St Marys River Sault Ste Marie
  • Ice resistant pontoon floats Richardson Docks St Marys River Sault Ste Marie

Winterizing Docks Consider Relocating

If the shoreline is too rough or rocky or you are in a situation where you get pack ice, you may be want to relocate them to another shore location that is better protected. Some lakes have small creeks coming in that never really freeze over. These can be excellent places to park your docks for the winter.

  • Richardson Docks and Barges
  • Preparing Docks for Winter

Free Floating Docks

Another option many people use is to disconnect the docks and leave them free floating. In most places where the water simply freezes over and thaws in the spring without a lot of pack ice, this works well. You have to ensure you have heavy duty anchoring to keep them in place. If you got a bad storm a dock can drag a lot of weight!
You also want to ensure multiple sections are not going to bang up against each other. Tying off the docks in multiple directions is always a good idea.

  • Preparing Docks for Winter
  • Preparing Docks for Winter

Chain vs Rope

Always use chain where possible. If you do have to use rope use quality marine grade nylon rope with a high breaking strength. If necessary drill and set high strength eye bolts into bed rock or very large boulders.